Kilimanjaro- the finish

All 14 of us had made it to the top.  Our company predicted about 90-95% success so statistically we had exceeded expectations. I was told the other group from our company had 4 people fail to summit. It was surprising how little contact we had with the other groups, even with our same company. The final walk down was all that was left.  From Barafu we had a couple miles during which we descended 3000 feet.  After a lunch which most of us were fairly subdued (the teen who needed oxygen felt great at that point), we gathered our stuff. We had a rain snow mix, which along with fatigue, made accidents more likely.  I understand most injuries happened on the descent which makes sense.

By the time we made the next camp I think most of us felt better.  Dinner was more celebratory.  I think we were all excited for the next morning.  Showers were coming.  Most of us also had a post climb plans. It was too far to travel to not combine it with something else for most.  One group did safari first, so they were heading home.  We had a four day safari, as did a couple others.  Some were going to Zanzibar for all inclusive fun.  Some were heading to Dubai.

The camp had a good view of the world down below, like many of the camps.  We were about to reenter that world.  It also had good view of the summit- something we didn't get much of on the ascent.

One last breakfast, and we gathered our stuff.   We were warned- the initial rocks we were going down were slippery, then as we descended into the rainforest it would get worse.  We were at Millennium camp- the higher of the two descent camps.  The descent was pretty, but I think we were all anxious to be done.  I only fell once, but then we stopped to put microspikes back on.  At that point it was better.

Eventually we saw the exit sign.  One more opportunity for photos, then one last chance to stand in line to signout.  We  had a bit of a break and one more lunch.  We had a banana stew- the first local dish they served.  A shame- I would have loved a chance to have a taste of Africa.  That was the case on the safari as well- mostly western style foods.  I would have really appreciated more of the banana stew on the mountain.  Anyway wine and beer were served, along with soda.  Although I think the plan is stop diamox on the ground, we did well and I stopped it they prior day.  That meant I could enjoy the carbonation without the awful taste diamox caused.

After lunch they did a ceremony.  The guides changed into their formal clothes, and had a medal and certificate for us.  It was cheesy, but I bought into it.  Some grabbed some beers for the last bus ride back to the hotel- about an hour.  We stopped at a souvenir shop.  Outside some of the locals were persistent about trying to sell us stuff.  It was a bit sad seeing the desperation with which they tried, but we were soon back in our bubble away from the real world again. 

We chose to gather again for one last dinner.  I guess after a week we weren't sick of each other yet. I appreciated every one of them.  It seems weird knowing we were dispersing around the world.  We shared our social media like people do so it will be nice seeing their further adventures.  After dinner, we got some rest- our driver was getting us at 630 am for our safari.  That story will be told some other time. 

Uhuru peak

 Once we had our rest and put microspikes on, we began the final push.  This was going to be an hour or so with a gain of 600 feet.  This is relatively flat compared from what we had done, but coming from Wisconsin this would be be a significant exertion.  Especially at 19,000 feet.  They path cut through the snow- sometimes on ice, sometimes rock.  It was ok, but I was at my limit.  My mood did not improve, but we pushed on.  I kept expecting the end, and I kept on being disappointed.  I did not appreciate the sights.  I did talk with my son, but otherwise kept to myself.  

My son on the other hand was unfazed.  He is like me- a bit reserved.  He was ahead of me. He did a bit of a wiggle. Perhaps a dance, as we walked.  He was along for the safari.  The climb was something to do, but was never a goal.  I wondered if this meant he was appreciating the moment.  It may have helped me break out of my funk.  I could too sense we were almost there.  When I asked him- he denied it was joy.  He attributed it to a show of how easy the hike had been.  Whatever, showoff.  He too had his backpack carried.  I still don't understand that.  I was second oldest, and with asthma (I used my inhaler, but on summit night it wasn't an issue) I understood why they took it.  I did feel insulted though.  We didn't complain about the bag issue.  

Eventually the people in front let us know they saw it.  basically the area looked like the rest of the mountaintop, but there was a sign. My mood didn't immediately turn, but it improved.  I think I was initially too tired to appreciate it.  We took pics.  I didn't even get my phone out for them- I told him to give them his to take pics.  I stepped away to let him get pics alone- I chose not to get solo pics.

Our guides brought out non alcoholic champagne, and we took group pics.  I think I started to appreciate I achieved something I had worked hard to do.  Spent a fair amount of money, and hoped I could do it.  What I mostly felt was relief.  From now on gravity was my ally.  from previous hikes I've always said I can hike flat or downhill as well as anyone.  It is uphill I struggle with. 

That being said, we were going down about 7,000 feet. From my training I knew I had about 3,000 in me before my knees would protest.  I had 2 poles, no backpack, so I was hopeful I'd be ok, but even if my knees hurt it would be over soon.  

I think I became more aware of my surroundings and my group at this point.  Being late, no one took the guides offer to go to the glacier.  It was interesting to see what the top of a 19,000 foot mountain is like.  I know I will never again.  Also, knowing the glaciers will be gone soon was a bit sad. We descended to Stella Point where we took spikes off.  We never took pics with the Stella Point sign.  Not a disappointment- if you don't have the energy you just don't.

I think this is where cracks in our group really showed.  We were no longer walking tight single file from here.  The climber who was acting goofy earlier was put on O2 and walked down urgently.  Guides seemed to pair up with those who needed help and we filtered down.  The guide carrying my bag paired up with another climber.  I thought nothing of it until I wanted water.  I was a bit dry the rest of the trip, but compared to how I felt earlier I was on top of the world.  I kept up with the faster people for awhile ahead of the slower, but I fell off the pace.  I was in visual contact with members of the group, but I was walking alone. Once we got near camp I started to worry perhaps I'd get lost and pass our camp.  The idea of backtracking and needing to go uphill was terrifying, but I spotted someone to follow.  We got in at the same time, and the porters sang to us as we arrived.  I listened for a polite amount of time, got some water, and crashed in the tent until it was time to eat.

Summiting Kilimanjaro- part 1

 Spoiler- I made it.  There were definitely times I didn't want to go on, but I did it. And I can say now it was worth it.

We were awoken by the waiters bring coffee or tea at about 10.  We were to prepare and gather for dinner,  Nerves, and altitude sickness were hitting.  I was able to eat thankfully- it was going to be a long time before were going to have more than snacks.  We had dinner and got ready.  I'm not sure exactly why, but we left a bit behind schedule.  I'll be honest, this night I was really in my own head.  Things happened around me that I was not aware of at all.  I talked at times with my son, and the guides checked in on me, but I was in my head mostly.

We were told to carry 2 liters of water in our backpacks. Otherwise backpacks were empty. Any other water we wanted was carried by guides.  They also had thermoses of hot sugar water for our mugs they carried. There were also snack boxes they provided. I had peanut butter m and m's and mini unwrapped starburst for sugar I carried in coat pockets.  I hoped my camelbak with hot water and insulated tubing wouldn't freeze- and it did well.  I also had nalgene water bottle guide carried which didn't freeze.

It was cold- but I live in Wisconsin.  95 % of my body was not cold.  The 5%- my hands.  I have hiking boots I'm very happy with.  I had a pair of liner socks and a pair of Darn Tough socks.  Feet were good.  I had 2 layers on my legs beneath snowpants.  I had a tshirt and a base layer, and my smart wool hoodie, which along with my normal home North face jacket provided plenty of warmth.  I did not have seperate down jacket like some suggest.  I gambled I'd be ok and I was. I had a hat and balaclava.  Again all good. I don't think our night was bad. It was cold, and wind ripped at times- but fine.  No precipitation until we got back to camp.

I tend to have cold hands and feet, and recently have dealt with Reynauds phenomenon (my fingers and toes can turn white and painful with cold).  So no surprise this is what I screwed up.  Before my Alaska trip I found liner gloves and down mittens on clearance.  They worked beautifully in Alaska.  I looked at Kili packing lists.  Most said get good gloves.  I think because gloves allow you to do more with hands. Altezza recommended mittens.  Living in the cold, I never actually bought good hand protection.  I dealt with it.  So this time I decided to invest in good quality.  I bought online a good pair of gloves and a set of mittens.  I should have bought large, but I bought medium.  My son had bigger hands, so he took the mittens.  He had no issues.  When I checked in I showed them my options.  They suggested my old mittens and liners.  After getting home I agree- mittens were right choice.  However even with hand warmers Mine were just not quite good enough.  I should have bought two pairs of the mittens I got my son.  It was a persistent annoyance.  Oh well- my hands are still here.  

We got on our way.  Our headlights worked well.  We walked single file up through camp and through initial climb to the higher Kosovo camp.  It was tiring- but we were going pole pole.  With the dark the only thing you could do is watch the feet in front of you.  You could also track the groups of lights of the other groups.  We did not, in my mind stop too frequently, or for too long.  We did not move too slowly- for me. However we were passed by other groups.

We passed the upper camps and began doing the switchbacks.  It was disorienting climbing.  You could see the groups ahead of you and could get a sense of the immediate future by no idea of how far to go.  The distance is quoted as short- 4-5 miles up or so.  I'm not sure if that includes the total distance of the switchbacks or distance if you straightened them. It felt like we covered distance pretty well.  In the darkness the only thing to use as a guide is light.  When that came we should be at Stella Point.  The guides weren't much help- just a little farther.  Honestly it wasn't true- but if they were honest I may have given up.  A beneficial lie. 

I wasn't sure where to look for sunlight. I assumed we were travelling north, but not sure.  If we were north I saw some light from the east.  Overtime I realized it was probably a town on the ground.  But it provided hope for awhile.  Eventually we started to get some real light.  With it came the realization we were way off pace.  Turns out I was unaware of the struggles of my fellow climbers.  I mean I saw some one vomit earlier, but they didn't drop out.  One of our group I guess had symptoms enough I'm surprised he kept going.  He was talking a bit goofy.  I guess sugar water helped. I'm not sure how long this took.  I'm guessing that's why we were behind.  Honestly though I'm not sure I could have gone faster. 

From sunlight to Stellas Point was 1-2 hours.  I would call them some of the worst of my life.  I'm sure I will realize someday I'm being a baby- but that day is not today.  All I could do is look up and see we weren't there and get discouraged.  The sunrise over Mawenzi peak was glorious. In the end we made Stella's point and took a break.  There was no sense of enjoyment for me.  This top considered the summit- so there was a lot of thought of being done.  I didn't quit, but I was close.  I don't think I would have made it if I was carrying my own backpack.  Regardless the big climb was done.

Who am I?

 I created this blog because I love to hear my self talk (or write), and I want more people to have the gift of my thoughts.  I like to travel, and want more out of it than a resort and relaxation.  I want to see and experience.  Sometimes, though things go wrong.  Most of those are simply been mistakes I've made.  I've learned from them, but there are plenty of ways to make new mistakes.  I am committed to finding them.

Despite this, nothing truly bad has happened.  I've caused inconvenience, lost some money, had minor injuries perhaps, but I'm still here.  I also have a bunch of stories I think are funny.  

I also have done things not everybody gets to do.  If you are here to read about my misfortunes- great.  If you want info about things that have gone well- hopefully you enjoy. 

Kilimanjaro Day 5

 Day 5 was the shortest day.  Some tours combine day 4 and day 5 into one long day.  This would be about 4 miles with elevation increase from 13,000 ft to 15.000 and the base camp- Barafu.  There is no water along the way, so the porters need to bring all we need from Karnaga to Barafu. We left vegetation behind into a barren landscape.  The hike was a steady gain.  Very dusty at this point in the journey.  Nerves were high of course knowing we were hours away from summit night. 

 At this altitude the weather seemed to change frequently.  Added a little anxiety for tonight.  You only get one shot and have to hope for the best.  Through the day I think we heard helicopters 4 times.  I live near a hospital, so I tend to tune out the sound of helicopters overhead.  However in this case it was a reminder I might have an expensive problem that night.  Maybe all 4 weren't rescues- but that was quite a few.  I had travel insurance, and I've used it more than I care to acknowledge, but I really was hoping having to use it for rescue and everything else that could go wrong.

Barafu is on an angle- some campsites were higher than others  I was hoping for as high as possible- to short even slightly the hike later.  As we passed sites going up I was encouraged. I saw tents that looked like ours (Altezza had three sites), but I pretended that ours might be higher.  Unfortunately we were just climbing to sign in and take pics.  Oh well.  We descended back farther than I would like.  We had our lunch.  Our guide then explained the plan for tonight.  We would get rest, wake by 10, hopefully eat what we can and ideally leave by 11.  

After lunch I got everything ready for later.  By 3 we were down.  I wasn't totally expecting to be able to sleep, but it came very easy despite the brightness of the day.  Eye shades and ear plugs came in handy.  As did sleeping pills. The information from the tour company strongly recommended against them, along with alcohol and other drugs, for obvious reasons.  Impairment can lead to injuries.  Low atmospheric pressure, low O2 sats and decreased respiratory drive is not a great combo.  I've used them in the past safely, I tried them early in the trip.  I would highly recommend using them.  However earlier in the trip a fellow climber shared their supply with some members of the group.  We all seemed to do ok.  I can not emphasize how much I recommend you do not do what we did. 

Kili Day 4

 At dinner the night before our head guide pointed out that since most groups head up the Barranco Wall at the same time it would be congested.  With tight quarters it makes it slow for everyone.  He proposed we could either leave early or late as opposed to typical 830 start.  We chose late with a start of 10.  It was only about 3-4 mile hike and though going up the wall took significant time without significant distance, it would be a short hike.  The sun was up and had some nice views over Moshi in the morning.  The wall was intimidating, but I think we know it wouldn't stand in our way.  Once we got underway it was actually a fun climb.  Nothing felt dangerous, and the guides were there to watch us on tricky areas.  I figure that if the porters can get up in carrying our stuff we should be fine.

Towards the top of the wall I started to have difficulty taking a deep breath.  I had difficulty taking deep breaths.  I had asthma as a child. Eventually it got better, and I had no concerns for at least 20 years. A few years ago I had mild symptoms and got an inhaler.  I only used it rarely for wheezing- once my daughter made me a thin mint cookie and Nutella sandwich.  I ate it after cutting the grass.  I haven't had nutella since.  Anyway- coughing after exercise (and less during) is pretty normal for me.  Trouble breathing is not.  I'm not sure why I didn't use the inhaler during, but I didn't.  I was a bit nervous when we got to the top.  It took awhile after I did the inhaler to feel better, but I eventually did. The rest of the day was mostly downhill.  That didn't hurt either.  

The scenery was very strange, but cool.  We stopped for tea like usual.  I ducked behind a bush to relieve myself.  I was a disgusted by how many wipes were left on the ground behind the bush.  I guess it wasn't something I saw so blatantly elsewhere.  We came across a area that had previously suffered a fire.  It must have been quite the challenge to put it out.

Being a short day we were soon into camp, and had lunch.  On our schedules there were talks about acclimatization hikes.  Since the second day we didn't end up doing these.  I'm not sure why exactly- but we did fine without them.  We were nearing summit night.  Nerves and excitement were rising.  I think most people were doing ok, but we weren't eating like we had previously.  Some suffered more than others.  One more short hike ahead before the big night.