Summiting Kilimanjaro- part 1

 Spoiler- I made it.  There were definitely times I didn't want to go on, but I did it. And I can say now it was worth it.

We were awoken by the waiters bring coffee or tea at about 10.  We were to prepare and gather for dinner,  Nerves, and altitude sickness were hitting.  I was able to eat thankfully- it was going to be a long time before were going to have more than snacks.  We had dinner and got ready.  I'm not sure exactly why, but we left a bit behind schedule.  I'll be honest, this night I was really in my own head.  Things happened around me that I was not aware of at all.  I talked at times with my son, and the guides checked in on me, but I was in my head mostly.

We were told to carry 2 liters of water in our backpacks. Otherwise backpacks were empty. Any other water we wanted was carried by guides.  They also had thermoses of hot sugar water for our mugs they carried. There were also snack boxes they provided. I had peanut butter m and m's and mini unwrapped starburst for sugar I carried in coat pockets.  I hoped my camelbak with hot water and insulated tubing wouldn't freeze- and it did well.  I also had nalgene water bottle guide carried which didn't freeze.

It was cold- but I live in Wisconsin.  95 % of my body was not cold.  The 5%- my hands.  I have hiking boots I'm very happy with.  I had a pair of liner socks and a pair of Darn Tough socks.  Feet were good.  I had 2 layers on my legs beneath snowpants.  I had a tshirt and a base layer, and my smart wool hoodie, which along with my normal home North face jacket provided plenty of warmth.  I did not have seperate down jacket like some suggest.  I gambled I'd be ok and I was. I had a hat and balaclava.  Again all good. I don't think our night was bad. It was cold, and wind ripped at times- but fine.  No precipitation until we got back to camp.

I tend to have cold hands and feet, and recently have dealt with Reynauds phenomenon (my fingers and toes can turn white and painful with cold).  So no surprise this is what I screwed up.  Before my Alaska trip I found liner gloves and down mittens on clearance.  They worked beautifully in Alaska.  I looked at Kili packing lists.  Most said get good gloves.  I think because gloves allow you to do more with hands. Altezza recommended mittens.  Living in the cold, I never actually bought good hand protection.  I dealt with it.  So this time I decided to invest in good quality.  I bought online a good pair of gloves and a set of mittens.  I should have bought large, but I bought medium.  My son had bigger hands, so he took the mittens.  He had no issues.  When I checked in I showed them my options.  They suggested my old mittens and liners.  After getting home I agree- mittens were right choice.  However even with hand warmers Mine were just not quite good enough.  I should have bought two pairs of the mittens I got my son.  It was a persistent annoyance.  Oh well- my hands are still here.  

We got on our way.  Our headlights worked well.  We walked single file up through camp and through initial climb to the higher Kosovo camp.  It was tiring- but we were going pole pole.  With the dark the only thing you could do is watch the feet in front of you.  You could also track the groups of lights of the other groups.  We did not, in my mind stop too frequently, or for too long.  We did not move too slowly- for me. However we were passed by other groups.

We passed the upper camps and began doing the switchbacks.  It was disorienting climbing.  You could see the groups ahead of you and could get a sense of the immediate future by no idea of how far to go.  The distance is quoted as short- 4-5 miles up or so.  I'm not sure if that includes the total distance of the switchbacks or distance if you straightened them. It felt like we covered distance pretty well.  In the darkness the only thing to use as a guide is light.  When that came we should be at Stella Point.  The guides weren't much help- just a little farther.  Honestly it wasn't true- but if they were honest I may have given up.  A beneficial lie. 

I wasn't sure where to look for sunlight. I assumed we were travelling north, but not sure.  If we were north I saw some light from the east.  Overtime I realized it was probably a town on the ground.  But it provided hope for awhile.  Eventually we started to get some real light.  With it came the realization we were way off pace.  Turns out I was unaware of the struggles of my fellow climbers.  I mean I saw some one vomit earlier, but they didn't drop out.  One of our group I guess had symptoms enough I'm surprised he kept going.  He was talking a bit goofy.  I guess sugar water helped. I'm not sure how long this took.  I'm guessing that's why we were behind.  Honestly though I'm not sure I could have gone faster. 

From sunlight to Stellas Point was 1-2 hours.  I would call them some of the worst of my life.  I'm sure I will realize someday I'm being a baby- but that day is not today.  All I could do is look up and see we weren't there and get discouraged.  The sunrise over Mawenzi peak was glorious. In the end we made Stella's point and took a break.  There was no sense of enjoyment for me.  This top considered the summit- so there was a lot of thought of being done.  I didn't quit, but I was close.  I don't think I would have made it if I was carrying my own backpack.  Regardless the big climb was done.