Kilimanjaro- the finish

All 14 of us had made it to the top.  Our company predicted about 90-95% success so statistically we had exceeded expectations. I was told the other group from our company had 4 people fail to summit. It was surprising how little contact we had with the other groups, even with our same company. The final walk down was all that was left.  From Barafu we had a couple miles during which we descended 3000 feet.  After a lunch which most of us were fairly subdued (the teen who needed oxygen felt great at that point), we gathered our stuff. We had a rain snow mix, which along with fatigue, made accidents more likely.  I understand most injuries happened on the descent which makes sense.

By the time we made the next camp I think most of us felt better.  Dinner was more celebratory.  I think we were all excited for the next morning.  Showers were coming.  Most of us also had a post climb plans. It was too far to travel to not combine it with something else for most.  One group did safari first, so they were heading home.  We had a four day safari, as did a couple others.  Some were going to Zanzibar for all inclusive fun.  Some were heading to Dubai.

The camp had a good view of the world down below, like many of the camps.  We were about to reenter that world.  It also had good view of the summit- something we didn't get much of on the ascent.

One last breakfast, and we gathered our stuff.   We were warned- the initial rocks we were going down were slippery, then as we descended into the rainforest it would get worse.  We were at Millennium camp- the higher of the two descent camps.  The descent was pretty, but I think we were all anxious to be done.  I only fell once, but then we stopped to put microspikes back on.  At that point it was better.

Eventually we saw the exit sign.  One more opportunity for photos, then one last chance to stand in line to signout.  We  had a bit of a break and one more lunch.  We had a banana stew- the first local dish they served.  A shame- I would have loved a chance to have a taste of Africa.  That was the case on the safari as well- mostly western style foods.  I would have really appreciated more of the banana stew on the mountain.  Anyway wine and beer were served, along with soda.  Although I think the plan is stop diamox on the ground, we did well and I stopped it they prior day.  That meant I could enjoy the carbonation without the awful taste diamox caused.

After lunch they did a ceremony.  The guides changed into their formal clothes, and had a medal and certificate for us.  It was cheesy, but I bought into it.  Some grabbed some beers for the last bus ride back to the hotel- about an hour.  We stopped at a souvenir shop.  Outside some of the locals were persistent about trying to sell us stuff.  It was a bit sad seeing the desperation with which they tried, but we were soon back in our bubble away from the real world again. 

We chose to gather again for one last dinner.  I guess after a week we weren't sick of each other yet. I appreciated every one of them.  It seems weird knowing we were dispersing around the world.  We shared our social media like people do so it will be nice seeing their further adventures.  After dinner, we got some rest- our driver was getting us at 630 am for our safari.  That story will be told some other time. 

Uhuru peak

 Once we had our rest and put microspikes on, we began the final push.  This was going to be an hour or so with a gain of 600 feet.  This is relatively flat compared from what we had done, but coming from Wisconsin this would be be a significant exertion.  Especially at 19,000 feet.  They path cut through the snow- sometimes on ice, sometimes rock.  It was ok, but I was at my limit.  My mood did not improve, but we pushed on.  I kept expecting the end, and I kept on being disappointed.  I did not appreciate the sights.  I did talk with my son, but otherwise kept to myself.  

My son on the other hand was unfazed.  He is like me- a bit reserved.  He was ahead of me. He did a bit of a wiggle. Perhaps a dance, as we walked.  He was along for the safari.  The climb was something to do, but was never a goal.  I wondered if this meant he was appreciating the moment.  It may have helped me break out of my funk.  I could too sense we were almost there.  When I asked him- he denied it was joy.  He attributed it to a show of how easy the hike had been.  Whatever, showoff.  He too had his backpack carried.  I still don't understand that.  I was second oldest, and with asthma (I used my inhaler, but on summit night it wasn't an issue) I understood why they took it.  I did feel insulted though.  We didn't complain about the bag issue.  

Eventually the people in front let us know they saw it.  basically the area looked like the rest of the mountaintop, but there was a sign. My mood didn't immediately turn, but it improved.  I think I was initially too tired to appreciate it.  We took pics.  I didn't even get my phone out for them- I told him to give them his to take pics.  I stepped away to let him get pics alone- I chose not to get solo pics.

Our guides brought out non alcoholic champagne, and we took group pics.  I think I started to appreciate I achieved something I had worked hard to do.  Spent a fair amount of money, and hoped I could do it.  What I mostly felt was relief.  From now on gravity was my ally.  from previous hikes I've always said I can hike flat or downhill as well as anyone.  It is uphill I struggle with. 

That being said, we were going down about 7,000 feet. From my training I knew I had about 3,000 in me before my knees would protest.  I had 2 poles, no backpack, so I was hopeful I'd be ok, but even if my knees hurt it would be over soon.  

I think I became more aware of my surroundings and my group at this point.  Being late, no one took the guides offer to go to the glacier.  It was interesting to see what the top of a 19,000 foot mountain is like.  I know I will never again.  Also, knowing the glaciers will be gone soon was a bit sad. We descended to Stella Point where we took spikes off.  We never took pics with the Stella Point sign.  Not a disappointment- if you don't have the energy you just don't.

I think this is where cracks in our group really showed.  We were no longer walking tight single file from here.  The climber who was acting goofy earlier was put on O2 and walked down urgently.  Guides seemed to pair up with those who needed help and we filtered down.  The guide carrying my bag paired up with another climber.  I thought nothing of it until I wanted water.  I was a bit dry the rest of the trip, but compared to how I felt earlier I was on top of the world.  I kept up with the faster people for awhile ahead of the slower, but I fell off the pace.  I was in visual contact with members of the group, but I was walking alone. Once we got near camp I started to worry perhaps I'd get lost and pass our camp.  The idea of backtracking and needing to go uphill was terrifying, but I spotted someone to follow.  We got in at the same time, and the porters sang to us as we arrived.  I listened for a polite amount of time, got some water, and crashed in the tent until it was time to eat.

Summiting Kilimanjaro- part 1

 Spoiler- I made it.  There were definitely times I didn't want to go on, but I did it. And I can say now it was worth it.

We were awoken by the waiters bring coffee or tea at about 10.  We were to prepare and gather for dinner,  Nerves, and altitude sickness were hitting.  I was able to eat thankfully- it was going to be a long time before were going to have more than snacks.  We had dinner and got ready.  I'm not sure exactly why, but we left a bit behind schedule.  I'll be honest, this night I was really in my own head.  Things happened around me that I was not aware of at all.  I talked at times with my son, and the guides checked in on me, but I was in my head mostly.

We were told to carry 2 liters of water in our backpacks. Otherwise backpacks were empty. Any other water we wanted was carried by guides.  They also had thermoses of hot sugar water for our mugs they carried. There were also snack boxes they provided. I had peanut butter m and m's and mini unwrapped starburst for sugar I carried in coat pockets.  I hoped my camelbak with hot water and insulated tubing wouldn't freeze- and it did well.  I also had nalgene water bottle guide carried which didn't freeze.

It was cold- but I live in Wisconsin.  95 % of my body was not cold.  The 5%- my hands.  I have hiking boots I'm very happy with.  I had a pair of liner socks and a pair of Darn Tough socks.  Feet were good.  I had 2 layers on my legs beneath snowpants.  I had a tshirt and a base layer, and my smart wool hoodie, which along with my normal home North face jacket provided plenty of warmth.  I did not have seperate down jacket like some suggest.  I gambled I'd be ok and I was. I had a hat and balaclava.  Again all good. I don't think our night was bad. It was cold, and wind ripped at times- but fine.  No precipitation until we got back to camp.

I tend to have cold hands and feet, and recently have dealt with Reynauds phenomenon (my fingers and toes can turn white and painful with cold).  So no surprise this is what I screwed up.  Before my Alaska trip I found liner gloves and down mittens on clearance.  They worked beautifully in Alaska.  I looked at Kili packing lists.  Most said get good gloves.  I think because gloves allow you to do more with hands. Altezza recommended mittens.  Living in the cold, I never actually bought good hand protection.  I dealt with it.  So this time I decided to invest in good quality.  I bought online a good pair of gloves and a set of mittens.  I should have bought large, but I bought medium.  My son had bigger hands, so he took the mittens.  He had no issues.  When I checked in I showed them my options.  They suggested my old mittens and liners.  After getting home I agree- mittens were right choice.  However even with hand warmers Mine were just not quite good enough.  I should have bought two pairs of the mittens I got my son.  It was a persistent annoyance.  Oh well- my hands are still here.  

We got on our way.  Our headlights worked well.  We walked single file up through camp and through initial climb to the higher Kosovo camp.  It was tiring- but we were going pole pole.  With the dark the only thing you could do is watch the feet in front of you.  You could also track the groups of lights of the other groups.  We did not, in my mind stop too frequently, or for too long.  We did not move too slowly- for me. However we were passed by other groups.

We passed the upper camps and began doing the switchbacks.  It was disorienting climbing.  You could see the groups ahead of you and could get a sense of the immediate future by no idea of how far to go.  The distance is quoted as short- 4-5 miles up or so.  I'm not sure if that includes the total distance of the switchbacks or distance if you straightened them. It felt like we covered distance pretty well.  In the darkness the only thing to use as a guide is light.  When that came we should be at Stella Point.  The guides weren't much help- just a little farther.  Honestly it wasn't true- but if they were honest I may have given up.  A beneficial lie. 

I wasn't sure where to look for sunlight. I assumed we were travelling north, but not sure.  If we were north I saw some light from the east.  Overtime I realized it was probably a town on the ground.  But it provided hope for awhile.  Eventually we started to get some real light.  With it came the realization we were way off pace.  Turns out I was unaware of the struggles of my fellow climbers.  I mean I saw some one vomit earlier, but they didn't drop out.  One of our group I guess had symptoms enough I'm surprised he kept going.  He was talking a bit goofy.  I guess sugar water helped. I'm not sure how long this took.  I'm guessing that's why we were behind.  Honestly though I'm not sure I could have gone faster. 

From sunlight to Stellas Point was 1-2 hours.  I would call them some of the worst of my life.  I'm sure I will realize someday I'm being a baby- but that day is not today.  All I could do is look up and see we weren't there and get discouraged.  The sunrise over Mawenzi peak was glorious. In the end we made Stella's point and took a break.  There was no sense of enjoyment for me.  This top considered the summit- so there was a lot of thought of being done.  I didn't quit, but I was close.  I don't think I would have made it if I was carrying my own backpack.  Regardless the big climb was done.

Kilimanjaro Day 5

 Day 5 was the shortest day.  Some tours combine day 4 and day 5 into one long day.  This would be about 4 miles with elevation increase from 13,000 ft to 15.000 and the base camp- Barafu.  There is no water along the way, so the porters need to bring all we need from Karnaga to Barafu. We left vegetation behind into a barren landscape.  The hike was a steady gain.  Very dusty at this point in the journey.  Nerves were high of course knowing we were hours away from summit night. 

 At this altitude the weather seemed to change frequently.  Added a little anxiety for tonight.  You only get one shot and have to hope for the best.  Through the day I think we heard helicopters 4 times.  I live near a hospital, so I tend to tune out the sound of helicopters overhead.  However in this case it was a reminder I might have an expensive problem that night.  Maybe all 4 weren't rescues- but that was quite a few.  I had travel insurance, and I've used it more than I care to acknowledge, but I really was hoping having to use it for rescue and everything else that could go wrong.

Barafu is on an angle- some campsites were higher than others  I was hoping for as high as possible- to short even slightly the hike later.  As we passed sites going up I was encouraged. I saw tents that looked like ours (Altezza had three sites), but I pretended that ours might be higher.  Unfortunately we were just climbing to sign in and take pics.  Oh well.  We descended back farther than I would like.  We had our lunch.  Our guide then explained the plan for tonight.  We would get rest, wake by 10, hopefully eat what we can and ideally leave by 11.  

After lunch I got everything ready for later.  By 3 we were down.  I wasn't totally expecting to be able to sleep, but it came very easy despite the brightness of the day.  Eye shades and ear plugs came in handy.  As did sleeping pills. The information from the tour company strongly recommended against them, along with alcohol and other drugs, for obvious reasons.  Impairment can lead to injuries.  Low atmospheric pressure, low O2 sats and decreased respiratory drive is not a great combo.  I've used them in the past safely, I tried them early in the trip.  I would highly recommend using them.  However earlier in the trip a fellow climber shared their supply with some members of the group.  We all seemed to do ok.  I can not emphasize how much I recommend you do not do what we did. 

Kili Day 4

 At dinner the night before our head guide pointed out that since most groups head up the Barranco Wall at the same time it would be congested.  With tight quarters it makes it slow for everyone.  He proposed we could either leave early or late as opposed to typical 830 start.  We chose late with a start of 10.  It was only about 3-4 mile hike and though going up the wall took significant time without significant distance, it would be a short hike.  The sun was up and had some nice views over Moshi in the morning.  The wall was intimidating, but I think we know it wouldn't stand in our way.  Once we got underway it was actually a fun climb.  Nothing felt dangerous, and the guides were there to watch us on tricky areas.  I figure that if the porters can get up in carrying our stuff we should be fine.

Towards the top of the wall I started to have difficulty taking a deep breath.  I had difficulty taking deep breaths.  I had asthma as a child. Eventually it got better, and I had no concerns for at least 20 years. A few years ago I had mild symptoms and got an inhaler.  I only used it rarely for wheezing- once my daughter made me a thin mint cookie and Nutella sandwich.  I ate it after cutting the grass.  I haven't had nutella since.  Anyway- coughing after exercise (and less during) is pretty normal for me.  Trouble breathing is not.  I'm not sure why I didn't use the inhaler during, but I didn't.  I was a bit nervous when we got to the top.  It took awhile after I did the inhaler to feel better, but I eventually did. The rest of the day was mostly downhill.  That didn't hurt either.  

The scenery was very strange, but cool.  We stopped for tea like usual.  I ducked behind a bush to relieve myself.  I was a disgusted by how many wipes were left on the ground behind the bush.  I guess it wasn't something I saw so blatantly elsewhere.  We came across a area that had previously suffered a fire.  It must have been quite the challenge to put it out.

Being a short day we were soon into camp, and had lunch.  On our schedules there were talks about acclimatization hikes.  Since the second day we didn't end up doing these.  I'm not sure why exactly- but we did fine without them.  We were nearing summit night.  Nerves and excitement were rising.  I think most people were doing ok, but we weren't eating like we had previously.  Some suffered more than others.  One more short hike ahead before the big night.

Day 3 Kilimanjaro

 

Day three started well.  We got sleep.  My worries that Will would bail were mitigated.  He would continue- at least for another day.  With that I could focus on task at hand.  We would initially continue our march upward.  It would be about 6 miles today- first three would be uphill to 15,000 feet, then lunch and down to 13,000.  You might ask- why go down? Actually the original route which is still used is much like that.  3 days up to elevation of 15,000, then at midnight- attack the summit.  Another day down, and you have your 5 days.  The success rate of doing this is approximately a dismal 50%.  So by getting to 15,000, and going down it helps with acclimatization and better success later.

This was a tough day.  Going up about 3000 feet in 3-4 miles is not easy at any elevation, but for us used to sea level it was a slog.  We were walking in line pole pole.  It helped being able to focus on the feet in front of you.  We took reasonable breaks.  I was ready for each of them.  As we were going up we would have our daily stop for tea.  I didn't have tea- just my lukewarm water.  I've never tolerated hot drinks.  Coffee is disgusting to me, and tea is just an excuse to have sugary water.  I always felt bad saying no- but I did like the cookies. Ginger for nausea.  Eventually we made the lava tower which was the high point and our lunch spot.  It was in the clouds, so I didn't really see the tower until we were leaving and it cleared a little.  I'm not sure anybody really ate much lunch.  

We did our health check.  My sat was initially a 73%.  Warming hands, different meter, I was able to get to 83.  My HR since the climb had been in the 110s, so that wasn't worse.  I'll be honest- I wasn't sure I was going to make it.  Looking around I also felt like I wasn't the only one though.  However the guides seemed fine with our numbers.  The rest of the walk today was downhill.  I definitely felt better.  Vegetation came back.  A bit weird, but green is nice.  

This was New Years Day- our company had a bit of a treat.  A cake was brought up- and actually really good.  Decorations were out.  They must have been carried up, as was a Santa suit.  Thankfully there was no lap sitting, but it was definitely a fun moment.  We even had non alcoholic champagne to celebrate the New Year. The next morning was going to start late- the trail was narrow so we were going to leave after most groups to have more room. In theory we could sleep in, but the sun would get me up earlier than necessary.

I was happy with our guides.  Our head guide would meet with us each night to go over the next days plan and do the medical check.  The guides took turns setting the pace.  The others would watch for signs of problems.  We always felt we were in good hands.  They lead us in chants to keep us going.  "Nonstop" "Too the top", and such.  

Our group had about 55 support staff.  This morning they gathered before the hike to sing to us. We didn't share a language with most of them, but it felt like they were happy for us.  If I were in a position where I was doing hard work to facilitate someone foreigners leisure I'm not sure how gracious I would be, but that's just me.  Other than the guides, the ones we conversed with were the waiters and chefs.  We were given the next days menu by the chef who always ended it with a charming- you are welcome.  

Kilimanjaro Second day

 After the poor night of sleep, doubt had set in. Not as much for me, but my son.  I put too much effort (and money) already to give up, but I felt him wavering. He wasn't giving up yet, but wasn't ready to commit beyond the next night. If he were to decide to drop out it opened a lot of questions.  What would he do while I waited? How much would it cost? Would I be better dropping out as well?  Nothing good would come from this.  We got ready and hoped for the best. The hike was shorter- about 3-4 miles only, but with the 3000 foot elevation gain from about 9300 feet to 12300.  There was a lot of climbing up rocks.  Nothing too difficult, more fun actually.  We still moved very slowly.  We started off in the rainforest, but as we climbed got into moorlands.  The vegetation became hardier and more sparse.  Temperatures definitely cooled.  I run hot, so I was still in short sleeves, but most people were getting out warmer clothes.  We had a bit of a light rain as we had entered the clouds, but by mid afternoon we got into camp and had lunch.  We were on the Shira plateau. 

By the end of the hike I was getting a little bit of a headache.  Nothing bad, but it was a sign to watch.  I did not have any nausea or change in appetite which was good.  And we were at 12,000 feet so some symptoms were expected.  Headache didn't last long.

On Kilimanjaro the are actually 3 peaks.  To the east there is Mawenzi at about 16000 feet. The big one is Kibo which is our goal.  Shira is the third- its more of a plateau extending miles to the west of Kibo.  This is what we had achieved with the hike today. The next few days will be ups and downs on the Shira plateau before approaching Kibo itself. Not a tough day, but after we had some rest we had a short hike to get a little higher.  This is consistent with the advice of hike high, sleep low.  Will seemed to do ok, but the physical challenge wasn't going to be the issue for him.  Sleep would be deciding factor.  

Given the shorter hike we had more time to get to know our group.  We each had our individual tents, but we also had the meal tent.  It was full size so it was a contrast to the tents.  They carried chairs and table up the mountain for us.  There was usually hot water for tea, coffee, or hot chocolate.  In the afternoon when it wasn't meal time popcorn was usually provided.  There was usually someone there to socialize with.  We had 14 in our group.  Altezza had another group, but we never interacted with them, or any other group really. 8 Americans, 2 Canadians, 2 Australians, and one each from China and Italy.  Our group had 4 sets of parent child including Will and I.  There was a group of 3 friends, and 3 individuals.  I think we got along pretty well and had no complaints about anyone else. I tried to be a wildcard with meal time seating allowing me to get to know everybody from the group.  

A couple details- our schedule was typically to be woken by waiters with coffee or tea at 630. Warm water for washing and treated cold water for drinking were always provided. Breakfast was typically the same.  Porridge- with sugar, honey, jam was first.  Pancakes, toast, sausages, with fruit were provided. All meals we were provided more food than we could possibly

We always stopped for tea.  Cookies, sweet bread (cake like- not thymus or pancreas which for reasons unclear are called that too), and peanuts were brought out.  

Lunch and dinner were a variety of things.  We always started with watery soups.  This isn't to say they weren't good- they were- but they helped with hydration.  First couple days they brought me chili to add to it.  After overdoing it, I stopped asking for the chili. Typically there would be a starch, vegetables and protein.  If I have a complaint- I got tired of how many vegetables there were.  I always feel pressured that since they are healthy I should eat my vegetables.  By the end of the trip I was turning them down and eating what I wanted.  It would have been hard to go hungry.  For New Years they brought a cake up.  It was actually the best cake I've had in awhile.  I regret not getting a second slice.  

The one thing I did change with my intake was to limit fluids after we got to camp.  We took diamox in am and at lunch, but I did not want to go out at night to toilent tent any more than I had to.  So I drank a ton in the morning.

The Start of Kilimanjaro

 We woke up and finished packing. Altezza uses Aishi Machame hotel.  I was happy with the hotel. There is a recommendation to have a rest day before climbing which would have been a great idea.  Unfortunately flying in the days after Christmas affected our prices. It's doable- but I wouldn't recommend it. We had breakfast and went to check in.  

Our meeting time was a reasonable 830.   They went over their list and made sure we had everything, and did weigh in. I was 3 kg over the 15 kg limit. Looking back- too many clothes. I had weighed at home but added some stuff. I assumed Will would have space- but he didn't. I made some cuts, then put what I couldn't cut into my day pack. It felt chaotic. We left what we weren't taking with the hotel. We got water, and met our group. We loaded onto the bus and headed to the gate. We had lunch while the guides signed us in, took some photos, and started. Day one was straightforward- gradual up hill on a path. Not the most scenic day.  Saw a couple blue monkeys. There was some rain and it was a gain of 3400 ft elevation over 7 miles. We started to get to know the members of our group. We hiked in single file behind one of the guides. The leader changed every day, but the pace was the same- pole pole. That means slowly slowly. The slow pace helps reduce the risk of altitude sickness and single file helps prepare for the hiking during pitch black of summit night.

By early evening we arrived in camp. We went first for pictures, and then to sign in. The camp was set up. They had tea and popcorn waiting for us. My problems really began once we got into camp. I could not find my glasses. I was convinced I left them behind in the chaos. I tore through my stuff. I was panicking. Then I remembered I put them in my front pocket of my backpack. You know- the most convenient place if I needed them in a rush. I then used my wet wipes to clean up.  It was going to be an adjustment going with out a shower for a week.  I was worried my own smell would get overpowering- but I am happy to say that was not the case with the wet wipes. We had dinner and chatted with the other hikers. We had our first medical check. Pulse ox, heart rate, and symptoms. I rocked that first check at over 9000 feet.

Night started my problems again. First we were taking the diuretic diamox to prevent altitude sickness. Along with the increased fluids we were taking it led to multiple trips to the bathroom overnight. I brought ear plugs, but before bed I didn't get them out.  It wasn't loud, but if I can't sleep I listen. I also did not have my stuff organized so when I did get up I couldn't find my light or what I needed.  Sleep was hard to come by. It was just as bad for Will.  However lessons were learned.

On the plus side we invested $250 for a portable toilet tent. Months prior I had made the decision to splurge on it. I had paid for it ahead of time. I was a bit nervous when the company seemed to have to no recall of this and tried to rent us another one, but we were able to clear this up thankfully. Most of the cost went to hire a porter to handle the needs of carrying and cleaning it. The public facilities were atrocious. If I had to use the public facilities I don't think I would have made it. It is odd to have someone dedicated to your elimination needs, but almost the whole group had one.  

Kilimanjaro Prep

So once I had a plan, the next step is getting ready. I've done a fair amount of hiking, and the daily plan wasn't excessive- except of course summit night. The big problem was that I only had one shot so I didn't want to fail due to a lack of preparation. Also living at sea level meant I had no way to prepare for altitude. So I worked out most days with a combination of treadmill, stairclimber, and a little bit of weights. I also tried to hike most weekends. Wisconsin doesn't have a lot of ways to hike altitudes, but I got creative. The bluffs of La Crosse and Devils Lake allowed almost step like climbing, but Rib Mountain was my main training. On the backside I could get 600 feet of elevation in about a mile. I did this over and over again. My record was up to 9 times over 9 hours. That was over 5000 feet- exceeding the 4000 feet of summit night- albeit at 1000 feet above sea level instead of 15,000. It helped make me think I could do it.

We had a visit with a travel doctor for diamox to help with altitude. We got malaria preventive meds. We got the yellow fever vaccine because our layover was in Ethiopia. It our 2nd flight were delayed- it might be required by Tanzania.

I had most of the stuff needed for the trip, but I did need to make sure I had all the recommend gear and some snacks for along the way.  Our company had a nice list, plus I did research on what others used.  One area I wish I did better was the hands.  Our company recommended mittens, others recommended gloves.  So I bought one pair of each.  I need hand protection every year.  My son preferred the mittens and it worked great.  I had an older set of mittens I brought.  The company suggested the older down mittens over the gloves.  They worked ok, but I wish I just got two sets of the better mittens. 

Otherwise the stuff I bought worked well.  I tend to sweat more than I like.  So I packed more than I needed.  Only the first day was heat the issue.  I used wet wipes to clean up.  It was not a shower, but it was reasonable. I could have packed one less outfit.  

Our flight from Chicago was through Addis Ababa. The flight was about 14 hours, and it was an older plane. My seat was broken, so I was moved away from Will into an aisle. This was not a great start.  We were flying in the am so by the time we landed it would feel like bedtime.  We then would have a 7 hour layover before the second flight.  I really wanted to sleep on the first plane, but knowing my tendencies I wasn't optimistic especially with the new seat. I almost fell asleep, but I did it too early.  For some reason Ethiopian Airlines promotes its duty free shop during the flight. They also announce it at a volume I would have thought only appropriate for an emergency.  Nearly had a heart attack, but whatever.  I was up all 14 hours.  I watched the third season of Industry.  Not bad.  Due to change in flight schedule, our 2 hour layover became 7. The plus side was that Addis Ababa sat at 8000 feet of elevation, so we were able to spend the day getting our bodies used to the high altitude. Also got to try Ethiopian food which was good.  I was left with the impression it was a relaxed place for a layover.  The return flight would dispel that myth. The second flight was a newer plane and much better. After collecting our stuff we met our driver and headed to the hotel for some pre- climb sleep.

So it tasted better than it looks.  The towel looking things are bread to eat the meat mixture

Turning 50

 At the beginning of 2024 I realized I would be turning 50. It seems like an important milestone- and one I was not looking forward to. As I've gotten older, I have redefined what it means to be old. Old is no longer my current age- but a few years down the line. However 50 would not be ignored. I decided I needed to do something big. Some grand gesture to push back. I guess I could have gone skydiving or something, but that didn't feel right.  As an avid hiker, Kilimanjaro seemed like the answer. Challenging, but not impossible. No new skills, but would require training. Something exotic. Something memorable. The world's largest freestanding mountain.  The highest one can hike with any technical skills.

Now that I had a goal- details needed to be worked out. My frequent adventure travel partner is my son Will. He was not moved by the idea. However, he was motivated by the idea of a safari. So we would see go on safari afte
r the climb in some of Tanzania's national parks after the climb.  We settled on late December 2024 start to take advantage of his college break.

There are widely divergent success rates quoted for Kilimanjaro based on various factors. Traditionally it was thought about half the climbers made it. The big issue preventing success is altitude sickness. The number is surely higher now- but hard to find. Hiring a guide is mandatory. Route, number of days, guide company, etc affect success. These details needed to be worked out. The shortest climbs were 5 days- with comparatively poor success rates. 7 days or more have better success. I also decided I wanted to use a company that followed guidelines set for protection of the porters needed to do the support work of the trek (KPAP approved).  I'm sure this added cost, but I figured any company that treated the porters well would treat us well.  I would rather be part of a group climb rather than private- I'm not the most social person, but I liked the idea of meeting other people. After I found out when I could get reasonable airfare it cut most of the options down to one. Our trip was set for 7 days Machame route with Altezza. The number of companies we could use seemed overwhelming, but by setting a few a criteria the decision was easy.  Their website predicted me to have a 90% chance of summiting.

Our flight from Chicago was through Addis Ababa. The flight was about 14 hours, and it was an older plane. My seat was broken, so I was moved away from Will into an aisle. I was not able to sleep as expected, so I watched the third season of Industry.  Not bad.  Due to change in flight schedule, our 2 hour layover became 7. The plus side was that Addis Ababa sat at 8000 feet of elevation, so we were able to spend the day getting our bodies used to the high altitude. The second flight was a newer plane and much better. After collecting our stuff we met our driver and headed to the hotel for some pre- climb sleep.